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Never Happened

Stuff like this never happens. It's just too good to be true. Or at least maybe we're glad it doesn't happen everyday.

These are the kind of stories that are so crazy no one could have made them up. Some of the stuff is legal, and the rest, well, if anyone asks, they're just stories you heard from somehone passing through.

But don't take our word for it. Hell, you might have been in Havana when Dos Hermanos hopped the Pilar, or fishing the flats of Christmas Island when we came flying just ten feet over the thatched roofs on our way south.

But those are just stories amigos, everyday the wind brings new faces and places. And maņana, hell, maņana's not a time or place, it's a lifestyle...the pulse of the ocean...the heading on our compass, the faces we remember...

And you might be sitting on that barstool somewhere, spilling your guts to your bartender---because you had to tell someone---when the federales come a knockin' with their pistols drawn, looking for the one who...

well, no dramas.

Just lean back, have a swig of whatever you're drinking, and tell em, "Never happened compadres, stuff like that could never happen, just the whiskey talking..."

Cowboy Boots

2/2/2007 -- Cowboy Boots.

Perhaps the most astounding thing about traveling is the tourist. We've all seen them, mocked them, or even snapped a memory they we'll take home in hopes to share with the loved ones back home.

A few weeks ago I took the tube in London randomly dropping in on parts of town and sharing a cigarette with a random 2pm passerby. I didn't take a camera with me to the London bridge, but just my cowboy boots and time to kill.

"I'll kick your American ass!" were the words I heard from just a few feet away. It was 3:30pm on a weekday and I had discovered London. A few coins bought me a stale draught and a tall wooden stool. Just beyond the London Bridge that Dicken's brought us, there's a forgotten tavern behind the fish market that reeks of beer and cigarette smoke. If you get lost among the old pebble streets and tall unlit alleyways deep in the annals of South London you'll find a heavy wooden door with no windows. It's one of the oldest speakeasy's in England and you won't find a sign outside; they don't sell postcards inside. It's a place where women hold their own and men stop in for a pint before they head to the factory, shipyard or other jobs you've never even heard of.

I took a drink of courage bought the two blokes a drink and sat down next to them. You don't buy people a drink you don't know. I ended up drinking the two warm beers. Tommy had a broken leg and used a cane to walk, the outcome of a bar fight just a few months past. The other was probably the one that ran his mouth, but from his awkwardly healed knuckles I let him. We drank alone for several hours with the sixty year old hag pouring us drinks. They both would lean over the bar screaming, waving their hands in conversation telling me about the London that doesn't make the magazines,newspapers or photos tourists bring home.

A few times I touched some nerves as the conversation ran into politics then football. We didn't once mention the museums, the places they'd traveled to or the the places I'd been. What we'd done in our lives, and what we did for a living was as important as who was buying the next round. As the tavern became more and more crowded we simply talked as three working types about the injustices of life and the aspirations perhaps we all share in common. They were there to watch the Barcelona game and soon the old hag behind the bar turned into three beautiful bartenders racing to keep up with the growing crowd.

Josey had her black hair pulled back and wasn't offering, but the bearded old men that sat at the bar with their rolled up cigarettes used words I didn't understand, haggling her to come home. One ended up with a beer in his face and the bar cheered and roared on as before. An hour later I was buying drinks for an Old RAF pilot who's name isn't as important as what he'd done in his life.

I asked when the bar closed and I was told, amidst much laugher, "when it's time." So much for clocks and so much for rules. This was the London I was searching for.

I bought Josey a few shots and discovered the penance of drinking with a bartender. Perhaps it was the lack of tourists, perhaps it was the congregation of normal people I didn't fly 3,500 miles to meet. But this was the Lodon I'd take with me. Josey asked of my cowboy boots and the Indians I'd shot from my horse, perhaps it was as relevant as my question about Beefeaters. As we both laughed we finished another rye. She grabbed my hand and smiled before she scuttled away to tend some rowdy blokes across the bar.

The pictures of London I could see from my Marriott hotel room, but the people, the people of London are much different than the vendors at Piccadilly or the Black Cab drivers that drop you off at Buckingham.

As I flew back over the pond my copilot asked me of the places I'd visited and the things I had done.

"You should have taken the time to see the stage of Shakespeare Theatre or the inside of Buckingham Palace..."

I simply nodded and smiled quietly as we climbed through 43,000ft. Perhaps without knowing the people, snapping the photos, riding the tube and visiting the "must see places" seemed halfhearted when visiting foreign places. I'm told the "staples" need to be seen in life, like the Pyramids, the Statue of Liberty, the Great Barrier Reef. Perhaps we can even say we know a place because we've spent a week there. But museums, statues and works of art don't make up a people. People create those things as a reminder, not as a representation. Bloody Staples....

I thought about these things as we flew the 6 hours home high above the frozen Atlantic looking out at the contrails of aluminum tubes bringing hordes of tourists eastbound. My copilot thumbed a Reader's Digest as my eyes remained fixated ahead at the great blue ocean.

I imagined knowing Shakespeare through Cliff's Notes, understanding Picasso through a poster or faking a British Accent under my London Fog overcoat. Perhaps one day I'll visit the Queen's gems, perhaps one day I'll wish to brag about my photo atop the Tour Eiffel, but not today. I'd rather spend a few pounds in a pub that was passed over by Fodors and get to know the people that are the pulse of a city.

My "Eastman-throw-away" can't share those things when I come home. The photos would surely get shown a few times then stored in some box tucked away in an attic for years. But how different is a photo you took of St Peters Cathedral from something you've seen in a magazine? I'm not religious, but how can you recant the feeling of the cold stone floor hurting your knees as you confessed your intimacies alone with only the tall echoes hundreds of years in the making among candle lit darkness? Life happens behind the photos...my camera stays at home and instead my pair of cowboy boots head to foreign lands with me.

The photos perhaps remind us of a moment, perhaps a place in time or a view we might remember, but life happens behind the pictures...

Sure a picture is worth a thousand words, but what are a thousand words worth?

---dan


Daily Journals Archive

Travel
45,000 Feet over Olympia 4/16/2002
Monterrey to Panama on a one way ticket... 4/2/2002
Habana Ice Day 1/10/2001
Cayo Hueso 11/11/2002

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